Musings of an Oriya Amdavadi

It was one of the most difficult decisions of my life. It was not easy to leave Bangalore, India's silicon Valley and move to dry Ahmedabad. Friends and colleagues thought I was crazy to even think of moving to a city which had just witnessed an earthquake measuring 7.4 richter scale. But then sometime in life, you throw all 'sane advice' to winds and do as your heart dictates. So I decided to say goodbye to Namma Bangaluru and take a flight to Ahmedabad. It's six years since I am here in Apnu Amdavad.... a city which never figured in my dreams even as I was chasing many a dreams and some impossible relationships during those heady reckless years in Delhi. But then as I believe in life some you choose and some life chooses. My first brush with Ahmedabad came through a long distance phone call I made from Delhi to a young guy whom I later married. March, 2001 As I came out of the IA flight late in the evening, hot air welcomed me. Well, the days of cool Bangalore are over, I said to myself. But then I was also coming to a city which still had apartments almost hanging in the air. The dust had not settled. The pictures of horrors of 2001 earthquake were still making to front pages of newspapers. Amidst death and destruction, I started my journey on a note which at that time seemed quite incomprehensible. Nevertheless exciting.
Kem chho, majaa ma
That's what I learnt first within days of arriving here in Ahmedabad. Over the last five years, it has become a part of my day-to-day vocabulary. My neighbour greets me this way, I greet my domestic help this way. The chain continues irrespective of life's turns and twists. Well, that's how this city revolves on a wheel of merry-go-round, or should I say Majaa Ma. Internal turmoils, pains, questions, traumas after all don't find a place in the hisaab kitab of life. Who cares for all these?
From Deepika to DeepikaBen
For the receptionists in my earlier offices, I was Deepika Madam. For friends, outsiders I was plain Deepika. Now, suddenly I became Deepikaben after coming to Ahmedabad which was too hard for me digest. I kept on insisting over the phone that "I am only Deepika..." Interestingly, the other voice always kept on forcefully calling me "Deepikaben". All letters from local people addressed me as Deepikaben Sahu. And those who knew my husband's name addressed me as Deepikaben Murlibhai Sahu... (Oh God!) (how I dreaded those letters not for the content but for this never-ending name only). Interestingly, there are some who still ask me "How's Mr Sahu?" And when I say "No, he's Mr Menon", they find it hard to digest. When I was applying for my passport, I went through hell cause I have still retained my maiden name. To top it all, I get many invitation cards which say "Deepalben Shah." But after six years things have changed. I have mellowed down. Today, I happily pick up the phone and say with a smile, "Yes, Deepikaben speaking." That's the biggest transformation for an Oriya, I must say.
Tame Kaun
This is absolutely crazy. My sisters can't understand this... they think I am lying. In the middle of the night when my phone starts ringing, I start imagining all possible bad news in this world. With great fear in my mind as I go to my study to pick up the phone, a dominant voice from the other side asks me, "Tame Kaun (Who are you)?" In the beginning, my mild east-Indian sensibilities didn't allow me to say anything. But now, I have become wiser... so with all the patience in the world I put question "Who called up this number, me or you? So you better know whom you are calling up in the middle of the night." Or if I am in a naughty mood, I say, "Karanj police station ma thi boluchhu (I am speaking from Karanj police station)." No offence meant to our men in khaki.
Sau Taka/ 100 rupees
Ahmedabad worships money. It earns money and it also saves money. I was never taught the art of savings. My father always encouraged me to spend money on books, travel, music and of course good food. It's only after coming to Ahmedabad, I realised there's something called savings in life. Thank you, Ahmedabad. Money speaks everywhere in this city. So ask your plumber "Will you come tomorrow to repair the leaking tap?" If he says, "Sau taka (100 rupees)," be sure that he will come. If you are wondering what sau taka has to do with his promise to do his job, then just close your eyes and think that like many other Amdavadis, the guy (in true spirit of the city) has learnt no other way to express himself or his commitment.

Pure Veg---- Punjabi, chense and continental
I have nothing against vegetarianism. Both my parents have become vegetarians now. I am married to a vegan (somebody who doesn't take any animal products in his diet). But I am simply tired of this board in front of restaurants here.... "That's Pure Veg: Punjabi, chenese and continental." So all that you get is baked macroni, veg manchurian and some orange coloured paneer butter masala. I can't distinguish one dish from another. They all look like mismash of something red, white and brown. And not to talk of items like chenise bhel... (I have never seen so many variations in the spelling of the word 'Chinese' anywhereelse in the country).

Oh, those lovely rains!
Rice, fish curry, mashed potato with a dash of mustard oil and pouring rains — that's early childhood memories. Sitting for hours near a window and seeing the rains lashing against the lamp post back at home in Orissa always came naturally to me. Rains bring back smells of wet earth of a land I left years back. They bring back memories which come and kiss on the cheeks but then gently go back again to the never-ending paddy fields of a verdant earth. Rains falling on the roof of my house lulled me into sleep in those carefree days. They were not just falling rain drops they were like God singing lullaby in the middle of an otherwise silent night. Rains bring back images of Ma waiting with a towel in the veranda as I returned from school all drenched. Rains bring back memories of me and my younger sister dancing away to glory in the garden just as the clouds became darker and darker. I miss that lashing rains in Ahmedabad. Give me wet clothes, umbrellas, soaked walls but give me Orissa's almost magical monsoon. And I am longing for that sentence to hear --- "There's a low pressure today."

Some of the things I love about Ahmedabad:
* The uninterrupted power supply (I grew up in Orissa where we could hardly see the nail-biting moments of a one day cricket match because the electricity would always play hide and seek with us)
* I love the fact that I can take an auto-rickshaw in Ahmedabad at 11 in the night and reach home (I have never done it in Orissa and I know it's difficult to do so in Orissa). I love it when I see 60-year-old women riding scooters and roaming on the streets of Ahmedabad. They are not relegated to the background.
* I love it when Gujarat families (all well-dressed) visit their loved ones to wish Saal Mubarak on Bestu Varas (Gujarati New Year). I love the way Navratri is being celebrated here. Even a dry dusty city like Ahmedabad looks so very inviting and elegant during those nine nights.
* I love it when Gujaratis serve a traditional meal of dhokla, undhiyu and khatti mithi dal when they invite guests. Only when we celebrate regional cusine at home, the world outside will raise a toast to it.....
(Now after going through this long love and hate relationship with Ahmedabad, I, Ms Deepika Sahu, is getting mentally ready to have a sizzling affair with another city..... Let's see where do I head next )

5 things I miss about 'Amdavad'

It has been almost 10 months since I left Ahmedabad. After living there for over half an year, I feel a part of the city lives in me, which would not let the memories attached fade away. Needless to say, I miss my 'gang' and the fun we had. But there are a lot of other things that remind me of my life there. And few of my favourite things about 'aapno amdavad' are:

5. Safety! - The first thing that fascinated me about Ahmedabad was safety and security I felt there. During my stay, I did not come across any incident of major theft, loot, murder or rape, which is as common as common cold in Delhi :(

4. Gujaratis - Gujaratis are quite unassuming . They are rightly known for their 'entrepreneurial' skills. I miss observing women elegantly dressed in saree with palu on right shoulder. I miss people talking 'sweetly' and helping without any 'motive'. Honest auto-wallahs are also a rare sight here and I can't help but remembering times in Gujarat everytime I argue with a auto-driver in Delhi.

3. Bike Rides - Thol Bird Sanctuary, Nal Sarovar, Adalaj, (jinxed) Modhera or even Airport - all these destinations and many more are always missed (by me) because of the journey. Every experience from riding a bike for first time, singing songs to getting lost and finding a way back is cherish-able!

2. Chai Kitlees & Anda Bhurji- Nothing can beat the adventure of traveling several kilometers at night to have a cup of hot tea along with not so hot discussions! Or even tea breaks at kitlees near my office. Add to this the famous egg bhurji from road-side hawkers. That used to be a nice change from Raghu's canteen (at office).


1. 'Majaa Ma' Attitude - Like my dear friend puts it - 'In Amdavad, always majaa ma!'. You are always at peace in the city and as most of the times as many call it 'laid back'. And that is why you love it!
Bau saru che!